Wednesday, May 15, 2013

A Global Perspective on the Beads of Kalinga Peoples, Philippines





The Kalinga peoples is one of the five ethno-linguistic ethnic groups living within the Cordillera Administrative Region of the Philippines.  While contact with foreign entities started as early as 1660s, it was only during Lt. Governor Walter Hale’s term in 1907 when a formal local government was instituted in the province.  This “delay” in the assimilation of the Kalinga peoples in mainstream society allowed for the continued preservation of the tribal customs and traditions. Of this rich heritage, the practice of bead collection continues.

Kalinga peoples are curators of beads. This means that the beads are passed down as whole assembled multi-strand necklaces. They do not dissemble necklaces and split the beads. Mothers pass down their beads to the first daughter. Because of this practice, the bead collections found in Kalinga are not open to the addition of “unknown” beads. And in this sense, we can say that Kalingas maintain a closed collection of beads.

Stone and glass beads can be found in the bead collections. The earliest materials used for beads were found in nature like seeds, berries, shells and stones. Glass beads are made by melting and shaping silica. Bead makers also use silica to imitate stone beads. Check out the comparison of stone and glass beads shown below:


Glass Banded Agates
Banded Stone Agates
 






The necklaces can be short necklaces like the 'dalisdis' - a multistrand necklace approximately 16-18 inches in length where beads as small as 5mm is used. The 'winayway'  is a bead arrangement where large beads as long as 3 inches are displayed in a long strand that can be worn across the body from shoulder to hip.  

The beads found in the Kalinga collection can be traced back to the global trade of beads to the Philippines. Peter Francis Jr. writes that Chinese interisland trade was considerable and mentions that 14th Century Han Chinese brought unspecified beads to Northern Luzon (p. 68). Ferdinand Magellan is documented to have given the king of Butuan "Beades of Crystall" (Pigafetta, p. 97).

The earliest carnelian beads were found in the ancient civilizations of Western Asia (4000-2000 BC). The carnelian stone beads found in Kalinga most probably were mined and polished at historic Indian bead making centers.

If only beads can talk!

References:
Francis Jr. , Peter (2002) Asia's Maritime Bead Trade 300 BC to the Present.
Pigafetta, Antonio (1905) Of Fernandus Magalianes: the Occasion of His Voyate, and the Particulars of the Same, In Purchas, Vol. 2 - 84.199.

www.facebook.com/kalingabeads
www.etsy.com/kalingabeads - Carnelian Trade Bead Necklace

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